Ls engine noise

See all 7 photos. When it comes to building engines, those equipped with hydraulic roller lifters offer major advantages to budget-conscious car crafters. Starting in with passenger-car small-blocks, including the Corvette and Camaro, Chevrolet began gearing engines with hydraulic roller lifters and cams.

Ford was actually a year ahead of Chevrolet, first equipping the 5. We don't need to go into all the advantages of roller lifters here, as we're more concerned with adapting them to a performance engine. The big plus with roller lifters is, unlike their flat-faced predecessors, they can be reused on both new and used roller cams with little fear of failure. But while it may seem as though you can use hydraulic roller lifters repeatedly with impunity, we've discovered that's not entirely true.

Most discussions regarding scouting used roller lifters concentrate on the roller bearings and hydraulic lifter noise, which is important, but the lifter's internal check valve is an area that is also susceptible to failure. Buttoning up a recent budget small-block Chevy engine build, we tried a set of used hydraulic roller lifters that appeared to be in good shape. We disassembled all 16 and cleaned the internal pistons, being careful to do only one at a time.

But after starting the engine, it was clear from the loud clattering that we had a problem - hydraulic lifter noise. Immediately after engine shutdown, we yanked the valve covers and discovered that six of the lifters could very easily be depressed the remaining lifters appeared to be good. Initially, we thought excessive clearance between the lifter piston and body was the problem, but after talking with Mike Golding of Gaterman Products, who sells high-quality performance roller lifters, we learned that dirt or debris in the check valve inside the hydraulic piston is more likely the culprit.

Sometimes, the caged check ball can be cleaned with a shot of carb cleaner and high-pressure air to restore its proper seal. If you connect the top of the piston to a vacuum source, you'll see that any lifter that can't maintain a vacuum has obvious check-ball leakage and will likely cause hydraulic lifter noise.

Of course, performing this test requires disassembling each lifter, making the purchase of used hydraulic roller lifters with an unknown background a bit of a crapshoot. Check-valve problems are generally tied to engines that have not been properly maintained.

While you could experiment with multiple sets of lifters to find 16 good ones, that's a lot of work, especially when the task involves removing the intake manifold. Golding also warns that the pistons used inside the hydraulic lifter are carefully sized to within 50 millionths 0. That means you should not mix lifter bodies and internal pistons. If you disassemble a hydraulic lifter, you should always keep the internal parts together for reassembly. Hydraulic lifter noise can also be aggravated by excessive valvespring pressure.

The Dart heads on our small-block use 1. This seat pressure is about 20 to 30 pounds higher than production springs and could contribute to noisy lifters. The bottom line is that a high-quality lifter with more accurate clearances and clean check valves will allow higher spring loads without additional noise. But also be aware that performance camshafts will often create some noise, which is a direct result of the more aggressive lobe design rather than any fault of the lifter.

We've included several sources for hydraulic roller lifters along with some other performance lifter recommendations to help you find the right fit for your application. Close Ad. Jeff Smith writer. SBC Summit Racing Share on Facebook Share on Twitter.What could have been done to prevent it?

How can it be prevented from happening again? This article aims to provide information to car owners that will help build awareness of some of the problems that may be faced during the time you have one of these engines. When you go to a medical doctor you usually wouldn't ask the question "What can possibly go wrong with my body during my life?

A sensible dose of awareness can go along way toward prevention or minimizing damage. This article will be split into the most common problems faced by LS engines during their lives. Lifter Problems Statistically the most common problem that presents itself even to fairly new engines that are unmodified and even more so in older engines that are modified is hydraulic lifter failure. The first symptom of this may be solid distinct knocking sound on one cylinder that is obvious at idle or sometimes a squeaking sound.

Hydraulic Lifter Noise - The Fix

If this happens the car should be minimally driven or even better flat trayed to your nearest workshop or if work has been done on the vehicle back to the place that did the work since that is most likely be the cheapest place to have it fixed. Driving the vehicle like this can chew out the camshaft lobe and cost much more money to fix, as the squeaking is the sound of metal being scraped and this often results in cam and main bearing damage as well as metal deposits in the oil pump, this damages the oil pump and further increases damage to the engine.

Often cars are driven for weeks knocking or thrashed to see if the problem can be cleared etc. This can make what started as a basic problem grow to become a situation where the engine needs to be fully dismantled and rebuilt. Beyond cam lobe damage the lifter can fall apart and the roller wheel can bounce around the engine with the result of damage to the engine block even cracking the black itself.

Sometimes lifters can break with the tapping progressing to the fall apart stage on the same day that the tapping is first noticed.

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Most of the time the cause is an worn lifter or ineffective lubrication due to engine oil deterioration,temporary or permanently low oil pressure possibly from worn bearings ,dirty oil, faults in the engine block tunnels, worn or faulty lifter buckets, high rpm when the engine is cold, softened valve springs which needed replacing.

Sometimes the tapping can be inside the lifter which is spring loaded and has its spring mechanism jammed making it solid, this is most common in old engines. Sometimes the lifter roller wheel surface has failed often due to inferior oiling to that lifter bore and this causes friction on the lobe making a squeaking noise and doing cam lobe damage.

Lifters can be replaced with a great range of aftermarket high performance lifters, but statistically they all suffer failures more often than is desired and the best solution to prevent costly damage is to be vigilant and pro-active in taking the car to get fixed when problems occur. Do not drive the car causing secondary damage because even if the engine is warrantedno warranty will cover damage from continued use once the failure has occurred.

When the engine has done over km change the lifters first chance you get. Changing them requires that the heads be removed and will mean the engine will also need new head gaskets and head bolts. It is not done in a regular cam upgrade job since the cam swap is all done at the front of the engine and the heads are not removed. All high lift aftermarket camshafts with lift over thou will result in a higher lifter failure rate.

This is because these require higher spring pressures to prevent valve float and this puts extra pressure on the lifter. Using light rate springs is not a solution because then there is an increased rate of problems that result from valve float which creates hammering of the valve train. The main message is if you want to enjoy the benefits of a cam upgrade that gives you significantly more power then it compromizes the overall engine reliability because of the extra rpm range.

Once a car is modified for extra performance its important that the driver of that vehicle is sensitive to new noises and protective of it from secondary damage. Link-bar lifters are not a solution, they may help with very high rpm valve float but thats all.

The link-bar lifters let the lifters vibrated much more than the factory system and this can contribute to reliability problems from link-bars. Noisy Hydraulic lifters can be caused by several reasons, none of which are due to a defective lifter and as a result, are not covered by manufacturers warranty. The clearances between the plunger and body of a Hydraulic lifter can be as little as. This is especially common after a rebuild where particles are left in oil galleries or crevices, and find their way into lifters.

Replacement of the lifters usually fixes the problem, as all the initial dirt has been captured by the lifters or the filter. Aeration of oil in the pressure chamber of the lifter can cause noise. This may be the result of air in the high pressure chamber of the lifter affecting valve train lash. When this occurs, valve closing velocity is increased, which causes the noise.

Air can be present in the lifter at shutdown due to an aerated oil condition, or it can be ingested into the lifter during a cold start from a suction side leak at the oil pump or oil pump pick up tube o-ring. Oil aeration level, oil viscosity, time to achieve oil pressure, engine speed, and lifter design all play a part in whether lifter noise is observed.I purchased a used LS L with 45K miles on it a few weeks ago, and noticed after I purchased it a valve noise on start up.

The noise is subtle and will go away when the car is warm. I'm thinking a valve lifter not getting the oil at first. I had it in to the dealer for an oil change and they said nothing about it. I wanted them to say something first. I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed this.

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None of the others have this noise. I kind of surprises me, I would have never expected it from a Lexus. The car is a dream to drive and I enjoy it very much.

ls engine noise

I have a good dealer, and have trust in him. I have an extended warranty on the car till K, so I have time to see if it gets any worse. What would you do? No service bulletins for engine noise on cold start-up for this model. If you brought it in already warm, they wouldn't hear it any way. Mention it to them and arrange to leave the car the night before so someone can hear it when it is first started.

What you are probably hearing is what most owners believe to be caused by the high pressure of the indirect injection. My LS had a mild "valve tappet" sound and my is slightly quieter.

My LS was whisper quiet. Note, some very knowledgeable owners due claim the Indirect injection is not the cause but I am not aware of anyone having this noise ever having it eliminated.

The one other, slim, possibility is the infamous valve spring failure problem. Lexus has issued a recall on this problem where there is a slim possibility of a spring failure that could cause engine failure.

I have a LS L with what appears to be the same noise. I've hear descriptions of the noise I am referring to as being very similar to this.The LS based small-block engine is the primary V-8 used in General Motors ' line of rear-wheel-drive cars and trucks.

Introduced in Januaryit is a "clean sheet" design with only rod bearings, lifters, and bore spacing in common with the longstanding Chevrolet small-block V-8 that preceded it as the basis for GM small-block V-8s. The basic LS variations use cast iron blocks, while performance editions are all aluminum with cast iron cylinder liners. Variants of the LT version of the GM small-block have been used since. Most of the credit for this engine family must go to Ed Koerner, GM's Powertrain vice president of engineering operations at the time.

The performance improvements in the LS-family V-8s over the previous classic small-block V-8 family are several. The lower section of the block incorporates deep side skirts, along with 6-bolt cross-bolted main bearing caps. This fully boxes the crankshaft, creating a very strong and rigid structure that has been hot-rodded by enthusiasts to over 1,HP.

Although it is the same compact physical size as the classic small-block V-8, this block can accept a 4-inch stroke as an option in its stock form, due to the cam location being elevated slightly, compared to previous block designs.

Also, the cam bearing journals are larger, to allow for a higher cam-lift profile than was previously possible.

How to Fix Piston Slap The Right Way – Check It Here

The stock aluminum heads can provide a high amount of air-flow, which previously could only be found in aftermarket race-performance heads. The aluminum heads also incorporate steam vents to prevent gas pockets from building up in critical areas, and this is vital in allowing the coolant to manage heat build-up for high-performance applications.

Such design features allow for a higher compression ratio with no fear of detonation. The thermostat has been located at a low position, which eliminates the possibility of a gas pocket preventing the thermostat from properly sensing the heat of the coolant. Previous generations incorporated a coolant passage through the intake manifold to warm the incoming fuel-air mixture in very cold climates.

However, modern fuel-injection techniques eliminate fuel atomization concerns under all conditions, so the LS family uses a dry intake manifold. This removes a common coolant leakage point and also allows the incoming air to remain as cool as possible for better power production.

The architecture of the LS series makes for an extremely strong engine block with the aluminum engines being nearly as strong as the iron generation I and II engines.

The LS engine also used coil-near-plug style ignition to replace the distributor setup of all previous small-block based engines. The cylinder firing order was changed to so that the LS series now corresponds to the firing pattern of other modern V-8 engines for example the Ford Modular VLifter tick is a common occurrence in V-8 engines like the Chevy 5.

This ticking sound is caused by the valve lifters, which are filled with oil during engine operation. When your engine sits, the oil can seep out of the lifters.

When this happens, the lifter will tick at start-up until it refills with engine oil. Ticking lifters are not dangerous. An old trick is to run a thicker engine oil, which remains in the lifter longer after the engine is shut off. This is not advised in newer 5. Keep in mind that heavier oils are slower to lubricate when the motor is first started, particularly on a cold start, which can lead to additional wear and tear on the engine.

Running engine cleaner through the engine can help remove carbon deposits that can contribute to ticking at start-up.

A variety of engine cleaners are available at automotive supply stores that are specifically formulated to help remove engine carbon deposits.

ls engine noise

Lifter replacement in the 5. If the engine ticking occurs continually after only 2 hours at rest, this may be an indication of worn lifters. GM's Technical Service Bulletin B describes valve lifter diagnosis and replacement procedures for authorized dealerships. AC Delco is GM's parts supplier.

The AC Delco oil filter contains a anti-drain back valve that helps stop the oil from draining out of the valve lifters when the motor sits.

If you are using an aftermarket oil filter, switching back to a factory AC Delco oil filter might reduce the occurrence of lifter tick. This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.

To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Works, contact us.

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Causes of Startup Noises in a 5. Lifter Replacement Lifter replacement in the 5. About the Author This article was written by the It Still Works team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.Nowadays, more and more people encounter the uncomfortable situation with the piston slap. As a matter of fact, there are many websites and forums do a relatively good task assessing such situation.

Even though their research and opinions are valid in some aspects, you might not find the logical and useful way to deal with it. By reading this article, you may know the right way on how to fix piston slap. Then, you will have little things to worry or think about.

As you may know, we should clear on the key thing here. Piston slap cannot be a serious issue for all automobile owners, just a kind of terrible annoyance. It is much like a TTAC column with the similar name.

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Piston slap can be an unfortunate and mistaken by-product from a manufacturer, which picked the incorrect piston rings to match with a particular motor. In fact, we are not talking about replacing its short block; the primary topic should be what the fix is? I would assume new rings and pistons.

Just try your best to brainstorm whatever you are in right now. So, if you know how to fix piston slap in time, it can be easy. Otherwise, things will be more complicated.

ls engine noise

Are you considering selling your car because this issue is so annoying? And is it the only way to get rid of it? Unfortunately, not. It may suck on the resale, especially when you sell your car on your own. In that case, you may easily transfer it to an unsympathetic purchasing public on the craigslist. By this way, you may figure tearing your engine down to deal with this issue is not worth it. Do not thrash it as it may be predicted to last for additional 50, tomiles.

You may be happy if that is what you truly want. In some old days, all of us may know a popular practice which was getting a piston knurled. If you want to try this method, many auto shops will sell the knurling tool and lathe for your choice. Otherwise, it was common to try to "re-fit" pistons, only by driving this device back in one cylinder with the stick and hammer.

With that several miles, it might be a bit folly to start doing any internal work provided by the engine. You indeed need a re-boost or the replaced job. If not, the rings cannot seat right. As a matter of fact, piston slap is not truly destructive at all.Are you a GM truck owner experiencing from loud knocking or excessive engine noise? You are not alone! What you may be suffering from is the now infamous phenomenon known as Piston Slap.

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Piston slap is caused when there's too much space between the piston and the cylinder wall. The piston moves up and down in the cylinder and the extra clearance results in a greater amount of rocking in the cylinder, producing a loud knocking noise. GM spokeswoman Deborah Frakes states: "the only known effect of this condition is an audible sound that typically occurs during the first five to thirty seconds after starting" and that "the condition does not create any degradation of durability, performance or safety.

Consumers have differing opinions. GM truck owners complain that piston slap damages the engine and causes excessive oil and fuel consumption. Many consumers suffering from piston slap report that the knocking is constant, lasting well beyond the initial start-up, and appears regardless of the temperature. Additionally, consumers argue that the problem lowers the value of their vehicle when they try to sell it or trade it in.

If you would like to know whether or not a legitimate claim for recovery under the lemon law is available to you, take a moment to read through this web site and fill out our free case review form or contact any of the attorneys listed. There is no cost or fee for doing so.

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The website PistonSlap. What is Piston Slap? Can Piston Slap damage my engine?


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